MAKEUP GUIDE – PART 4: FOUNDATION

Hello, witches!

Today we are going to talk about maybe the most important part of a makeup: THE SKIN!!! You can have beautiful eyeshadow and colourful lips, but if your skin looks cakey, it’s not good. You need a great base for your blush, contour and highlight, duuuh.

First of all, you need to prepare your face for the makeup application. You can clean it by either washing it with a face wash or with makeup remover/micellar water. The next and maybe most important step is hydrating the skin. If you want to have a healthy skin, you need to hydrate it from the inside by drinking a good amount of water, and hydrate it from the outside by using creams, serums and so on. Having oily skin does not mean that it’s hydrated! It has some external moisture but it doesn’t mean it’s healthy! The same goes for dry skin. Because it looks dry it doesn’t mean it’s not hydrated well from the inside, but you have to nourish from the outside as well.

Now it’s time for primer. You can skip this step, but I don’t recommend skipping it if you want a flawless makeup application. A primer should always be chosen according to your skin’s needs. If you have large pores then you could use a pore filling primer, if you have redness you can use a green colour correcting primer, and if you have dry skin you can use a hydrating primer. For example, I have oily skin with large pores. In my daily makeup, I try to keep it light and avoid products that can clog my pores, like pore filling primers. I’ve noticed for example that a good hydrating primer can do wonders for all types of skin. I sometimes use it on my entire face, but when I’m getting ready for a photoshoot or an event where I want my face to look perfect I use a pore filling base on my cheeks and a hydrating one for the rest of my face.

Foundations come in a lot of shapes, sizes and textures, and I know it can be a bit confusing. Stick foundations, for example, are really thick and high coverage, perfect for TV and theatre makeup but not suitable for daily use. You can also use a darker shade for contouring, but don’t apply it on your entire face every day.

Applying foundation with a flat brush

For beginners, this is a pretty difficult method. I remember when I first started out my makeup course and I never understood why I didn’t get the high coverage that I wanted. I was pushing too hard, you need to go really light with this or else you’ll just be moving and picking up product instead of applying it. And even after you learn this I still think it takes way longer to blend than with a Beauty Blender type sponge.

Applying foundation with a stippling brush

It’s a bit easier than with a flat brush, in my opinion. You can push the product into the skin, but again, you have to use a light hand.

Applying foundation with a Beauty Blender type sponge

I would call this the “foolproof method”. It’s a lot faster and easy. Of course, it depends on the sponge, I can say without a doubt that whatever dupes I’ve tried, nothing compares to the Original Beauty Blender. Its’ texture not only makes it super light, less absorbent and more bouncy but it also seems to push the product further into the skin. Because it’s so malleable, it can easily fill those pores with foundation. Don’t forget to wet it before use! Don’t forget to squeeze out the excess water, you want it damp, not drenching wet. Then you just tap. You can swipe to spread the foundation but tap to blend it into the skin.

Tips & Tricks

Whatever the sponge, it will suck quite a bit of your foundation, so what I do to minimize my loss of product is that I apply the foundation to the skin with a flat brush, or those useless silisponges and then blend it all with the Beauty Blender.

Like I’ve said before, hydration is key! Although I have oily skin and a lot of clients with the same issue, I prefer to use a hydrating base most of the time instead of a mattifying one. I’ve noticed that the skin looks dewy, healthy and it doesn’t start oiling up as fast as with other primers.

How to choose the right foundation for you

First of all you gotta look at yourself real good! If you have an almost flawless skin there’s no use for a heavy foundation like that from Milani. You don’t need to smother your skin with heavy foundation daily, especially when you can easily achieve perfect looking skin with a minimum use of makeup.

Those of you with good skin, you can easily opt for a BB, CC, DD, ZZ cream or whatever it’s called. These confuse a lot of people because they can’t tell the difference between them. Well, honestly they confuse this witch too. At first, one was more of a correcting cream, the other hydrated or whatever, but now they all basically do a lot of things and a BB cream from one brand might do and be exactly the same as a CC cream from another brand. Basically CHAOS! All you gotta know about them is that they’re basically a hydrating cream with some foundation in it. Some of them have super good coverage, almost like a medium coverage foundation soo…. I don’t know, man!

The most important aspect when choosing a foundation is the UNDERTONE! Meaning is the skin a bit pinkish, yellowish or neither?

So basically there are 3 categories of foundations:

  • Warm – yellow, peach, gold
  • Cold – red, pink, blue
  • Neutral- olive or a mix of the warm and cold shades from above

How can you tell? Well, there is one easy test to determine your undertone. Look at the veins from your wrist, if they’re blueish purple then you have a cold undertone. If they’re greenish then you have a warm undertone. If you can’t tell then you’re most probably neutral. Don’t worry about finding out if you’re blue, gold or red undertoned, up until recently I hadn’t even heard of these possibilities. Almost all foundations are either yellow, pink or neutral undertoned and all skin types can find a foundation that works for them.

The next step is determining your shade. The best spot to test foundation is your jawline. It isn’t as affected by redness as the rest of the face and it will also show you if you have a big difference between your face and neck.

When you try out a foundation in the store, you should always ask for a mirror and go outside to see how it looks under natural lighting because the one in stores can be really tricky. Also, don’t buy it right away, walk around the mall for half an hour to see if the foundation reacts with your skin’s natural PH and oxidizes. You wouldn’t want to turn into an Oompa Loompa.

Setting the foundation

I recommend setting your foundation with loose powder. Compact powder has more coverage but it is a lot heavier and chunkier thus giving a more heavy and cakey look. I recommend carrying around a compact powder for touch-ups because walking around with a loose powder and a giant brush would be more difficult. Think about the spillage!

Translucent powder is great because it doesn’t have shade, it will not change the colour of your foundation but be very careful because the market is full of quite a few powders that cause horrible flashback. That means that if someone takes a picture of you and uses flash you risk looking like you’re covered in flour.

Click here for part 1: The Eyes

Click here for part 2: The Face

Click here for part 3: Brushes & Sponges

 

That’s all for today! Don’t forget to turn on those notifications so you don’t miss a single spell. Bye, witches!

 

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